When associating a gemstone to the sea, an easy choice would be aquamarine. The name itself is an ode to the ocean- “aqua” meaning water, and “marine” meaning of the sea. The truth is that aquamarine is found far from the sea- it is mainly sourced in Africa in places like Kenya, Madagascar, Zambia and Mozambique. Gemstones actually found in the sea include pearls, calcite, aragonite, and coral. Among these gemstones, the ones most commonly found in jewelry are pearls and coral.
Most precious corals are sourced in the Mediterranean and Pacific Oceans. In the US, it’s illegal to harvest coral, with the exception of black coral in Hawaii, and most are not precious gem quality. Most precious coral is found at a depth that would require a submarine to view (about 500-1,000 feet below sea level), and the jewelry we see from them are processed skeletons. A little morbid if you think about it!
Within the US, the Lacey Act imposes penalties for taking, possessing, transporting and selling coral illegally. The problem is, it does not account for legally imported corals, which damage the Earth’s ecosystem. Unfortunately, the jewelry industry is what produces the most demand for these corals, which results in completely depleted ocean floors. The difference in sourcing pearl jewelry vs. coral jewelry is that pearls are often farmed, and oysters that produce pearls are not killed in the process of collection. However, when harvesting precious corals, a method called “dredging” is utilized. This is where a heavy frame with netting is dragged across the sea floor, pulling up everything in its path, including fish, mollusks, seaweed, etc. The coral is harvested, and the rest is considered waste.
Coral jewelry is stunning, but it’s not sustainable. It also has a higher maintenance than most, as it’s a porous gemstone. My intent is not to shame anyone that owns coral jewelry, but to gently educate on other options in the future. Carnelian, jasper, and onyx are great alternatives to coral. I can proudly say that Chouette Designs will be a coral free jewelry brand. The world is full of amazing gems that can remind us of the sea, without destroying it.
